From Montagu to George
Driving across the hot dry parts of South Africa the
landscape is dotted with Australian Eucalyptus.
Invasive, guzzling water, a raging fire hazard, they suppress indigenous plants
nearby. Before being used as fence-posts or telephone poles, they provide
shade, to sheep and cattle in the fields, to these travellers in November 2010.
Back on the tarred R318 near Matroosberg is
the railway cutting abandoned with the construction of a modern concrete bridge.
Springbok
in a field flees the advancing yellow monster. Once there were migrating
herds, now we are lucky to see a small group together.
In the little town of Montagu a beloved cat was run over. A
reminder, go slow, cat crossing. I looked at gardens. Dramatic and effective. Minimalist
planting against a long white wall. Something sharp from North America,
alternates with soft green fingers on a South African succulent. An Italianate cypress
punctuates the distance.
In Montagu is the Bird Tree. Thanks to his camera we
discovered dramatic red markings on the spread wings of the sacred ibis.
(Breeding plumage – glossy dark plumes with pale gold underparts. The only
resident ibis in the SW Cape. Colonial breeder. Eats bugs, frogs, snails, and
other small birds)
Tick birds. Cattle egrets harvest ticks and insects
disturbed by cattle. (Smallest of the egrets. Yellow legs, usually covered in
mud! Breeding plumage with pink/orange on crown, back and chest)
Cattle egret or tick bird |
In this landscape, and harsh climate, farmers can scratch a living with sheep, or ostrich for meat, or game animals for hunters. Or they can harvest olive oil, and essential oils for food and perfume. We saw a magnificent stone barn. A company that recycles e-waste! Virgin Earth.
We travelled from Montagu behind Riversdale’s Sleeping
Beauty Mountain thru the Little Karoo. Down the hair-raising Cloete’s Pass thru
the Langeberg I, who can’t take steep drops, was driving. You can share the
relief, after long hot dusty hours of driving, when you see the Gouritz River
winding away in a green valley.
The second night brought us to George. Car registration
plates for this town are CAW. (C for the Cape). Cold and Wet. But George was in
the grip of a severe drought with water rationing (today ... they have rain!)
This garden uses borehole water. So did our room. Made a cup of tea when we got
there, then threw it out, After Reading the Instructions. That salty water did
in the Ungardener when we were in Kgalagadi.
Water. This is the 1.1% of South Africa where the indigenous
forests of Knysna, with their legendary elephants, are found. Suffering
from drought, in part because of global weirding. Also because they build golf
courses and associated gated housing. Polo fields. A popular destination for
South Africans to retire to. Creating employment. Their workers are in RDP
houses or shacks. The First World and the Third World side by side.
Next day we went to the Garden Route Botanical Garden in George and Birds of Eden.
Bird facts from Joy Frandsen’s Birds of the South Western
Cape, 1982
Pictures by Diana and Jurg Studer
of Elephant's Eye on False Bay
(If you mouse over teal blue text, it turns seaweed red.
Those are my links.
To read or leave comments, either click the word Comments below,
or click this post's title)
Pictures by Diana and Jurg Studer
of Elephant's Eye on False Bay
(If you mouse over teal blue text, it turns seaweed red.
Those are my links.
To read or leave comments, either click the word Comments below,
or click this post's title)
what an amazing adventure, I cannot tell you how much I enjoy your posts, I truly do and the photos, amazing!
ReplyDeleteyour enjoyment brings the happy memories back to life for me!
DeleteGreat post Diana, Enjoy your post keep up the good work.
ReplyDeleteHave a great day,
jihn
agree with Laurie, you have a traveller's narrative as opposed to just a tourist. Fabulous wildlife, a mediterranean looking garden in Montague and the derring-do of the hair-raising Cloete’s Pass - ending with a serene lady & her book
ReplyDeletep.s. are you re-publishing older posts on EEFB before EE goes? Could not comment on your London visit but next time you are here would like to meet up - if I am still here!!
yes, I'm teasing apart the posts that don't belong to the story of how we made the garden in Porterville, and travelling in the Swartland. Bringing those still interesting posts across to this new blog - and hoping that my earlier readers will follow me here.
DeleteOne day, when the renovations are done (and started!) we will visit London again.
I travelled down to Cape Town via Route 62 last week and passed through Montagu. One of my favorite towns and a place I would probably be able to live in very easily. I've never done the back roads though and would love to try it out one day.
ReplyDeleteI have never seen pictures of the ibis...fascinating birds...love the markings.
ReplyDelete